As an old school, I like to start my day with some tea or coffee and radio. The beauty of internet is that it can transport us in a different location, without moving there. Somedays I find my self listening Hawaiian radio in Tokyo heart of Japan, and other days in different countries. But one day, while tuning in and changing stations, I stumbled upon @Gastropodcast. Dan Saladino, a BBC food and media journalist, was the guest there and he was discussing his book 'Eating to Extinction.' What really piqued my interest during their conversation was the term 'food uniformity.' At first, I thought it was a mistake. After all, I believed that people across the world consumed diverse foods influenced by geographic location, climate, and culture. But I was wrong…
Uniformity of Rice
The author explained that people worldwide are increasingly consuming 'uniform food,' from grains and meat to poultry, cheese, and vegetables. Now, you might be wondering why this 'uniformity' matters. Well, it turns out that relying on the same crops globally makes them vulnerable to diseases we can't easily combat. China, one of the world's largest rice producers, is facing challenges to our future food security. A recent study reveals that the amount of Chinese farmland affected by crop pests and diseases has quadrupled in the past 50 years. Changing weather patterns are causing outbreaks of pests and diseases, affecting crop production.
Photo by Natalia Chernenko on Unsplash
Did you know that approximately half of the world's population consumes the same variety of rice? This rice variety is known as Japonica rice (Oryza species), and its origins trace back to China, where it was first domesticated along the Yangtze River. Rice holds immense economic, geographical, and cultural significance for many Asian countries, contributing to the foundation of modern civilizations.
There are three more cultivated species of rice varieties worldwide:
Oryza sativa japonica (cultivated in China)
Oryza sativa indica (domesticated and cultivated in the Indian subcontinent)
Oryza glabberima (domesticated and cultivated in West Africa)
Rice Cultivation
But how is rice grown? Wet rice farming, which involves creating rice paddies, was invented in China around 5000 BCE. The earliest evidence of this farming technique can be found at Tianluoshan, where paddy fields have been identified and dated.
Wet rice cultivation is more labor-intensive than dryland rice farming and requires organized land ownership. However, it is significantly more productive and environmentally sustainable. By constructing terraces and fields, it reduces environmental damage from intermittent flooding. Allowing rivers to flood the paddies replenishes the nutrients taken from the fields by the crops.
Direct evidence of intensive wet rice agriculture, including field systems, comes from archaeological sites such as Chuodun and Caoxieshan in the lower Yangtze (dating to 4200–3800 BCE) and Chengtoushan in the middle Yangtze (dating to about 4500 BCE). These discoveries provide insights into the early history of rice cultivation and its profound impact on human civilization.
Source: https://www.tsunagi-japan.co.jp/blog/onodera_colum56/
Rice in Japan: More Than a Staple, a Cultural Emblem
Now, let’s talk about Japan.
Rice in Japan and throughout Asia isn't just a dietary staple; it's deeply intertwined with culture and societal norms. Many aspects of Japanese social behavior, such as the emphasis on harmony 和('wa') and consensus-seeking can be traced back to the labor-intensive practice of wet rice cultivation.
Historically, families would pool their labor and share water resources and irrigation facilities for rice farming. The significance of rice as a dietary staple is reflected in the Japanese language. ご飯'Gohan' is not only the word for 'cooked rice' but also 'meal.' This linguistic link extends to other Asian cultures where rice is the primary dietary staple. The use of 'gohan' in Japanese extends further with prefixes to denote 'asagohan' (breakfast), 'hirugohan' (lunch), and 'bangohan' (dinner), emphasizing that it was nearly unthinkable for most Japanese to have a meal without rice.
Interestingly, the name used by the Japanese to identify the United States has been 米米国'beikoku' (land of rice), implying abundance. Reference: https://spice.fsi.stanford.edu/docs/rice_its_more_than_food_in_japan
Historically, rice holds many cultural ties in Japan, including its association with the Shinto religion, which revolves around rice-growing and includes rice products like sake (rice wine) and mochi (rice cakes), as well as the grain itself and its stalks. Rice is also an integral part of wedding ceremonies. In the highly ritualized 'san-san-ku-do' ceremony, where the bride and groom, dressed in traditional kimono, both drink sake, the number three plays a significant role. The couple takes three sips from three different-sized cups, each representing heaven, earth, and humankind, signifying luck and auspiciousness.
Rice in Transition: Japan's Decline and Future
The decline in rice consumption in Japan is a notable trend. In 1962, rice consumption per capita was 118 kg per person. However, by 2020, it had decreased to just 50.8 kg per person, marking a reduction of over half. Reference: https://www.stat.go.jp/data/kakei/longtime/index.html#time
This decrease is partly attributed to Japan's shrinking population, leading to a drop in the national demand for this staple. Japan's ranking in global per capita rice consumption has fallen to 50th place, trailing behind several other Asian nations. Bangladesh claims the top spot, with an average daily consumption of 473 grams per person, followed by Laos at 445 grams, Cambodia at 436 grams, Vietnam at 398 grams, and Indonesia at 364 grams.
Moreover there is a significant decline in the number of rice farmers. In 1970, Japan had approximately 4.66 million rice farmers, but by 2020, this figure had plummeted to about 700,000, marking a staggering 70% decrease in just five decades. To put it in perspective, rice production in Japan stood at 12.53 million tons in 1970. Reference: https://www.maff.go.jp/j/tokei/kouhyou/zyukyu/
These statistics reflect the evolving dietary preferences and demographic shifts in Japan, which are reshaping the role of rice in contemporary Japanese society.
Many Japanese are worried about this decline and are trying to find possible solution. However, for some optimistic analysts the future of rice is taking an interesting turn. While rice consumption has been declining in Japan, it's gaining popularity in other countries, especially as part of Japanese cuisine. In 2013, UNESCO recognized 'washoku,' traditional Japanese cuisine, as an Intangible Cultural Heritage, and simultaneously, sushi consumption was on the rise worldwide. This trend is driven by the perception that Japanese cuisine is not only delicious but also healthy and low in calories, with rice at its core.
It's fascinating to think that 'washoku' might be the seed that sprouts new rice-eating cultures around the world. As it spreads from Japan to various corners of the globe, it has the potential to inspire fresh culinary traditions in many countries.
