In today's newsletter, I'm excited to share my snowboarding experience in Nozawa Onsen and delve into the rich history of this captivating town.
This Christmas, my husband and I embarked on a delightful journey to Nozawa Onsen, a charming hot spring town nestled in the northern region of Hakuba, Japan. Situated just two hours by train from Tokyo, followed by a 25-minute ride from Iiyama station, Nozawa Onsen is a neighbor to Hakuba and a magnet for millions of visitors annually.
Our primary goal was to do snowboarding, and despite it being December, the weather was unusually warm. Upon arriving, the city temperature hovered around 1°C, and as we ascended the mountains, a mesmerizing snowfall began, which made the surrounding even more beautiful. Our adventure started at Iiyama station, from where we strolled through the old city, heading towards our log house. The air was filled with the distinct scent of sulphur, coming from nearby hot baths, and the gentle snowfall made our walk even more enchanting or I can dare to say more romantic haha.
Fact: Nozawa Onsen, famous for its hot springs, has 13 traditional public baths (sotoyu) kept by locals since the Edo Period. They are free to use, making the town more attractive. Yep, you heard me right, you can enter for free in this places.
Additionally, Nozawa Onsen is celebrated for its exceptional ski resort. It gained global recognition when it hosted the biathlon events during the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics. The resort is particularly welcoming to international visitors, offering English menus, maps, and signs. It's arguably one of Japan's prime destinations for blending superb skiing with an authentic onsen town experience. There's truly nothing more rejuvenating than soaking in the hot onsen waters after an exhilarating day of snowboarding.
Nozawa Onsen, is located in the northern part of Nagano Prefecture and holds a special status as one of Japan's most renowned "Onsen Kingdoms." With 197 hot springs, it ranks second only to Hokkaido, which have 234 onsen sites.
The town, known for its heavy snowfall, features a built in YU-road, which is a convenient escalator-like lift constructed in the early 1990s during Japan's bubble era. This was a time when the resort attracted a large number of local Japanese skiers. It transports visitors smoothly to the Hikage ski slopes.
Now, let's go back to snowboarding. This year Japan has had unusually warm weather, which means less snowfall compared to years ago. To give you a little bit of background, this is my second time snowboarding, so I can safely and proudly say I'm a beginner. However, due to less snowfall, we couldn't access the beginner course for snowboarding. This meant we had to take a gondola and the lift to reach the higher parts of the mountain, specifically to an altitude of 1650 meters. I never took the lift; it's very scary standing outside holding your board in high places. I can imagine all the worst scenarios, but somehow my husband convinced me it's not so bad, and I fell for it, haha. As someone with a fear of heights, this experience was incredibly intense. As you may know, when you drop off the lift, you need to start skiing or snowboarding right away. So the process is quite fast. However, due to panicking, my feet got stuck as we disembarked from the lift, triggering an adrenaline rush unlike any I've felt before. It was quite a moment.
From there, it was the highest point of the mountain, everything dressed in white. Many people were preparing for their skiing, their gears in beautiful red, blue, and many other colors. I loved the panorama. Now, the difficult part: Snowboarding. Last year I struggled just to stay upright, but this year it felt a bit easier. After several attempts, I managed to stand, but within a minute, I found myself face-planted in the snow, feeling as if all my organs were in my mouth. Falling for beginners is a must, and you get used to it. But still, it feels so unannounced that your body gets so tired, haha. On top of that, no idea how, but maybe due to falling so often, snow managed to enter my jacket. The cold was biting; my gloves were completely wet, and a shiver ran down my neck. Despite having rented our snowboarding clothes and board from the log house, they barely kept me warm. I ended up with a frozen nose and fingers numbed by frost – quite the unforgettable experience!
That first day on the slopes was tough. You might know that Japan is known for its fluffy powder snow. However, because of the unusual weather, it was more icy than powdery. I fell on the frosty ice a lot, and it was very unpleasant. My body ached from the cold, falling, and the frosty ice. Uhh, so many things, haha. The only thing that kept me energetic was the onsen.
Returning to the log house, I immediately went for a bath. I took off all my gear, which, by the way, is super heavy and uncomfortable. Am I the only one who feels this way? Entering the bathhouse, I found it empty and felt so lucky. I was peeking to see outside, but again, no one. The log house we stayed at had two baths, one indoor and the other outdoor. Imagine, the outdoor bath was just an insane experience, being inside the hot bath while watching the snow fall. It was truly magical, something that soothed my heart and soul. Outside was freezing, but the bathwater kept me warm. The indoor bath was sulfur bath, which is very good for the skin but have an unpleasant smell. The scenery was breathtaking, but I couldn't take any photos. The photos below, I took them from the log house's official page, Nozawa Denbey.
The food here tasted even better, perhaps because of the nature and snow around us. For dinner, we enjoyed hot sake, and for breakfast, we had a traditional Japanese meal featuring onsen tamago and grilled salmon. Onsen tamago is a unique delicacy – an egg gently boiled in the natural heat of the hot springs, resulting in a soft, runny yolk. It's a specialty of this town. Typically, onsen-tamago is served in a small cup with a flavorful dashi and soy broth. So, if you ever visit Japan, I highly recommend trying this delightful breakfast. It's quite delicious! :D
Lastly, Nozawa Onsen is well-known for its hot spring-bathing monkeys. Their red faces have been making global news for many years. I didn't visit them, but the famous snow monkeys of Jigokudani Monkey Park are part of the Joshinetsu National Park.
I had never snowboarded in my life, but since coming to Japan, I decided to try it, along with surfing. It's challenging at first, but gradually you get the hang of it, and it becomes quite enjoyable. I love the feeling of 'freedom' it gives; in those moments, it feels like the world pauses, and it's just you, fully immersed in nature. If you ever visit Japan, I highly recommend trying snowboarding in Nozawa Onsen – it's definitely an experience not to be missed.
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