When you think of green tea, it's almost instinctive to connect it with Japan. There's a profound connection between the two, deeply embedded in the culture.
When I video chat with my mother, she always says "Drink green tea; it's good for your health." She always suggest of adding a slice of lemon because it helps your body absorb the antioxidants better. However, when I shared this tip with Japanese friends, they would often laugh. They couldn't quite picture green tea and lemon as a combination. They prefer the traditional style: a steaming cup of green tea paired with wagashi (Japanese sweets). This pairing enhances the taste of the tea and creates a perfect harmony. In Japan, food is all about achieving that perfect balance.
Source: https://www.nippon.com/en/japan-data/h01387/
As a foreigner, I frequently pick up green tea from convenience stores as my daily drink of choice.
But I've also had the privilege of experiencing the Japanese tea ceremony, a world apart from the everyday conbini (convenience store) green tea. This ceremony took place in a small shop in Asakusa, an old neighborhood in Tokyo. The lady conducting it was dressed in a traditional kimono, and the atmosphere in the room was serene and hushed. I could hear the rhythmic whisking of the chasen (bamboo whisk) against the chawan (matcha tea bowl), and that sound had a calming effect on me. It felt incredibly Zen, and for a while, I lost track of where I was and even who I was. To express your appreciation for the taste and show that you genuinely enjoyed it, you're supposed to slurp the tea. In today's newsletter, we'll delve into the history of green tea and its changing status in Japanese culture.
The birthplace of tea is believed to be China, and there's a fascinating story about its origins. Shen Nong, the father of herbal medicine in Chinese medicine, is said to have used tea as an antidote every time he tested various herbs, even if it meant getting poisoned as many as 72 times a day. The oldest reliable reference to the use of tea in Japan dates back to 815, but it became more widespread during the Kamakura period, with the help of Buddhist monks. The father of the tea establishment in Japan is Sen no Rikyu.
The history of tea in Japan can be traced back to when tea seeds were first planted in the Uji region of Kyoto. Uji was among the first places in Japan where green tea was cultivated. Legend has it that Eisai, the monk famous for introducing Rinzai Zen Buddhism to Japan from China, advised priests in Uji to plant and cultivate tea in the area. Uji is particularly renowned for being the largest producer of matcha, green tea powder. (Reference: https://www.nihon-cha.or.jp/export/pdf/nihoncha-a3.pdf)
The largest tea production in Japan is in Shizuoka, accounting for 40% of the total production, followed by Kagoshima. The third-largest tea-producing region is Mie, and Kyoto and Kyushu are also known for producing excellent tea.
Green tea contains two main components: theanine and catechin. Catechin is responsible for the tea's bitter taste and is believed to help reduce cholesterol. Additionally, the consumption of tea extracts, which include catechins and theanine, has been associated with enhanced systemic immunity and a reduced risk of upper respiratory tract infections and influenza symptoms in healthy adults (Reference: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3049752/).
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A 2017 research paper suggested that drinking green tea may have benefits for cognition, mood, and brain function, potentially due to compounds like caffeine and L-theanine found in green tea. Another study in 2020 indicated that green tea consumption is linked to a 64% lower risk of cognitive impairment in middle-aged and older adults.
Unfortunately, despite being a green tea enthusiast, there is a significant decline in green tea consumption in Japan over the years. There are two primary reasons for this decline. Firstly, there's a growing array of beverage options available. Not only is green tea less consumed, but various other teas like black tea, hojicha, oolong tea, and herbal teas have become more popular. Additionally, there's increased competition from coffee and soft drinks.
Secondly, there has been a decline in the culture of traditional tea-drinking. With the prevalence of plastic bottles, the habit of brewing tea in a teapot at home has dwindled. The chart below illustrates the decline in tea consumption from 2011 to 2020, with consumption dropping from 87,106 tons in 2011 to 68,442 tons in 2020.
Source: https://jfaco.jp/column/3065
According to a questionnaire survey of tea producers, around 80% of respondents reported that they had no successor, and approximately 70% stated that the business situation was poor. Looking ahead to the next 10 years, about 30% expressed their desire to stop or reduce their operations, surpassing those who intended to maintain or expand. This data highlights the declining state of the primary tea industry, with experts even suggesting that tea production in Kakegawa City, Shizuoka, is at risk of extinction.
The decline in demand for leaf tea, particularly high-quality tea, has resulted in a drop in the prices of crude tea in the market. Lower prices mean reduced income for producers, discouraging young farmers from continuing in the industry and pursuing new opportunities. This negative cycle affects motivation within the industry. However, it's worth noting that tea exports, especially organic and matcha varieties, are thriving, particularly in the US and the EU markets.
Certain tea companies are advocating for a reformation of the distribution structure, one that isn't restricted by entrenched cultural norms. They emphasize the need for diversifying tea production beyond "deep-steamed tea." This structural transformation in tea production should be market-responsive, catering to various consumer demands. (Reference: https://www.city.kakegawa.shizuoka.jp/fs/2/7/8/2/9/6/_/____________________________.pdf)
Green tea, black tea, and oolong tea all come from the same tea leaf, but their production and oxidation processes result in different final products. Green tea is unfermented, unlike black tea, which is fully fermented, which explains the darker color of black tea compared to the original green tea leaf.
Indeed, among the many varieties of green tea, matcha stands out as the most popular and recognized worldwide. Moreover, matcha has a fascinating history. Originally developed in China as a method for consuming tea, it found its way to Japan through Zen Master Eisai. While its popularity waned in China, in Japan, it evolved alongside the development of the tea ceremony and became a cherished tradition.
Today, local matcha is gaining worldwide recognition for its beauty, flavor, safety, and more. Its health benefits, along with the global popularity of Japanese cuisine, are opening doors to its further expansion. However, Japan faces a challenge as low-quality, inexpensive matcha from China enters the market, threatening the reputation of "Japanese matcha." To address this issue and uphold the excellence of Japanese matcha, experts believe it's crucial to educate international audiences about "Japanese Matcha" and the diversity of green tea. The Nihon Cha organization is actively promoting Japanese tea worldwide through its 'Japanese Tea Ambassadors' program.
It's interesting to see how companies in Japan are innovating to make green tea more appealing to younger generations. "Arabikicha" ( あらびき茶) by Kagoshima Horiguchi Seicha is a great example of this innovation. It's a product that finely grinds the entire Ichibancha green tea into a powder, making it easy to dissolve and use in various ways. One creative application is the "Arabikicha Beer," where green tea is dissolved in beer, creating a refreshing and unique beverage. This kind of fusion can introduce green tea to a wider audience and cater to different tastes.
The fusion of matcha and gelato is another creative way to make matcha more attractive to the younger generation. In Asakusa, Tokyo, there's a company that specializes in matcha gelato, which is a collaboration between Suzukien, a tea wholesaler in Asakusa, and Nanaya, a company in Shizuoka Prefecture known for its Shizuoka matcha. What makes this gelato interesting is that you can choose the strength of your matcha flavor from Level 1 to 7, with Level 7 being the strongest matcha in the world. This customization allows people to experience matcha in a way that suits their taste preferences, making it more accessible and appealing, especially to younger consumers. Reference: https://pinspo.com/1723.html
Source: Reference: https://pinspo.com/1723.html
Lastly, if you are interested in studying Japanese tea, there are two valuable resources available:
Shizuoka Tea Study Program: This program is designed for individuals who wish to start a tea business outside of Japan and provides comprehensive knowledge about Japanese and Shizuoka tea. You can find more details about this program: https://www.o-cha.net/english/shizuoka-tea-study-program/index.html
Japanese Tea Instructor Certification: If you're interested in obtaining certification as a Japanese tea instructor, you can visit the following website for more information: https://www.nihoncha-inst.com/
These resources offer opportunities to deepen your understanding of Japanese tea and its rich cultural significance.
