I'll never forget my first encounter with sushi, which, surprisingly, wasn't in Japan but rather in Oxford. During my year in the UK, while I was studying for a postgraduate program (for the curious ones, that's what I was up to), I lived with a roommate, let's call her Emma 🙂 . One day, she decided to make vegetarian sushi with nori, rice, carrots, and cucumber. It was my first time giving it a go, and the moment it hit my taste buds, I immediately discard it. My conclusion at that time, was that sushi was among the least appetizing foods worldwide.

Yet, my view took a complete 180 when I found myself in Tokyo years later. Despite to my initial skepticism, a friend convinced me to try kaiten sushi (conveyor belt sushi). Given my past ordeal, I wasn't expecting much. But then came maguro—the lush, fatty tuna belly. Just a single bite and its rich, buttery essence had me hooked. Nothing like Emma's vegetarian sushi. I couldn't help but keep calling for more until I was absolutely stuffed. Being in a new place and unsure of the do's and don'ts, I tend to follow the crowd. Noticed a couple next to me brewing green tea right at the table with hot water on tap. "How cool," I thought, and didn't hesitate to mimic them. Discovering that the blend of velvety maguro, tangy pickled ginger, and warm green tea was nothing short of divine. I silently thanked God for sushi. So today, I'll dive into a brief history of sushi and explore how the conveyor belt revolutionized the sushi scene in Japan.

History:

As a matter of fact Sushi evolved from a fermented dish known as Narezushi in Southeast Asia, not Japan. Initially crafted by a mountain-dwelling tribe as a method to preserve scarce fish, it later gained prominence in Japan during the Nara period, where it was offered to the imperial court. The modern versions of pressed and boxed sushi retain elements of these ancient practices. By the Kamakura period, a variation using leftover fish, known as juku sushi, emerged.

During the mid-Edo period, the advent of rice vinegar led to the creation of "Hayazushi," a quick, non-fermented sushi. This innovation allowed for immediate consumption without the wait. Later, in the late Edo period, nigiri sushi was developed. Originally the size of a rice ball, it was served in sliced pieces. The contemporary practice of serving two pieces on a single plate traces back to this tradition.

Since the 1900s, advancements in ice-making, fishing techniques, and distribution enabled sushi restaurants to serve fresh sashimi by using ice for preservation. This period also saw the establishment of the modern practice of glazing fish with simmered soy sauce. With the arrival of the Taisho era, electric refrigerators became common in sushi restaurants, leading to a greater diversity of toppings and smaller serving sizes. The Great Kanto Earthquake further dispersed sushi chefs throughout Japan, aiding the spread of Edomae sushi to rural areas.

Sushi's evolution took a dramatic turn in the Showa era. Amidst a period of economic boom, traditional street sushi stalls closed due to hygiene concerns. Yet, in 1952, a pivotal moment occurred with the opening of the first conveyor belt sushi restaurant in Osaka, revitalizing sushi's popularity. This innovation paved the way for modern sushi to become an accessible delicacy, shaped by historical developments.

Kaiten Zushi or conveyor belt sushi

If you've ever been to Japan and tried out sushi, chances are you've enjoyed the fun and wallet-friendly experience of conveyor belt sushi, a nice change from the more upscale sushi spots. But did you know that this cool invention of conveyor belt sushi pretty much gave a big boost to the sushi scene back in the day? The trendsetter, "Mawaru Genroku Sushi," popped up 65 years ago in what's now known as Higashiosaka City, Osaka Prefecture. It made a huge splash at the 1970 Osaka World Expo, turning heads and drawing crowds. This moment, along with the rise of fast food and family dining, was a game-changer for Japanese food culture, kicking off what's been dubbed the "first year of the restaurant industry." 

Post-war, Yoshiaki Shiraishi (now deceased), the innovator behind Mawaru Genroku Sushi, moved from Ehime Prefecture to Osaka and established a restaurant in what is now Higashiosaka City. He later introduced sushi to his menu, a delicacy traditionally reserved for celebrations.

Aiming to make sushi accessible to the young workers and students from nearby factories, he pioneered a stand-up dining format, offering a plate of four pieces for 20 yen. This approach, about 30% cheaper than competitors and with transparent pricing—a rarity for sushi eateries—proved to be a resounding success.

But as the restaurant's popularity soared, managing the flood of customers became a challenge. On top of that, the business faced a labor shortage, with young apprentices fresh out of junior high leaving due to the intense workload. Mr. Shiraishi found himself pondering how to streamline operations, especially noting how much time was lost in the simple act of handing sushi to customers. His moment of inspiration came during a visit to a beer factory in Suita City, Osaka, with fellow business owners. Witnessing the conveyor belt in action, he thought, "This is the solution." By setting up a rotating conveyor around the counter and placing sushi plates on it, customers could easily pick their own dishes. This innovative idea was born in 1948, revolutionizing how sushi was served.

However, developing the conveyor belt system was challenging and took nearly a decade to perfect. The main issue was navigating corners: plates moved easily along straight sections but would jam or fall off at turns. Inspiration struck Mr. Shiraishi unexpectedly as he observed children fanning out playing cards. He thought, "What if we use fan-shaped sections to navigate corners smoothly?" With this idea, he collaborated over drinks with the owners of a nearby factory, pooling their collective ingenuity. This collaboration led to the development of a uniquely shaped conveyor segment named "Uroko," solving the problem of turning corners efficiently.

Furthermore, they prioritized choosing materials that wouldn't rust, culminating in the creation of a prototype in 1957 dubbed the "Conveyor Swivel Dining Table."

Hiroshi Shiraishi, the eldest son of Mr. Shiraishi and the current head of Genroku Sangyo in Higashiosaka City (which runs Mawaru Genroku Sushi), reflected, "My father had a knack for managing costs effectively and was great at nurturing relationships. I believe the small factory owners were so willing to help because of my father's character." It was this blend of Mr. Shiraishi's vision and the technological prowess of Higashiosaka's manufacturing sector that brought his innovative idea to life.  In April of the next year, the inaugural "Mawaru Genroku Sushi" opened its doors near Kintetsu Fuse Station. The concept of quickly grabbing sushi as it passed in front of them appealed to the fast-paced residents of Osaka. The sight of sushi moving along the conveyor belts was a novel attraction visible even from outside the restaurant, drawing crowds daily. By 1960, the second location launched in Dotonbori, situated in Osaka's vibrant downtown Minami area, famously known as a foodie paradise. You can go to visit this legendary place.

Conveyor belt sushi saw significant growth during the World Expo in Osaka. Responding to an invitation from the local chamber of commerce, Mr. Shiraishi showcased Genroku Sushi at a prime spot near the monorail's west exit, serving the expansive event space. The Expo's opening brought a steady increase in patrons, quickly leading to long queues. To manage the demand, Mr. Shiraishi creatively dispensed the nigiri set (300 yen) directly onto the conveyor belt.

The Osaka Expo not only spotlighted Genroku Sushi but also introduced Japanese people to a new food culture with the presence of an American-style family restaurant by Royal Host, American fast food, and Kentucky Fried Chicken. This exposure marked the beginning of a new era, with the first KFC opening in Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture in November 1970, and the inaugural Royal Host store in Kitakyushu City, Fukuoka Prefecture the following December. The year 1970 is celebrated as the "first year of the restaurant industry," with Genroku Sushi, alongside fast food and family restaurants, playing a pivotal role in this landmark period.

Following its success at the Osaka Expo, Genroku Sushi saw its presence swell across Japan, primarily through franchising, boasting around 250 outlets at its zenith, including both franchise and direct operations. To protect its innovation, Genroku Sushi patented its "conveyor rotating dining table" in 1962 and took legal measures against copycats through attorneys in Tokyo and Osaka.　The patent lapsed in 1978, paving the way for a new wave of conveyor belt sushi establishments under different brands nationwide, spurred by a shift towards operational independence from the franchise model. This evolution sparked a sustained boom in conveyor belt sushi, cementing its place in the Japanese dining landscape. A report by Fuji Keizai in Tokyo forecasts the conveyor belt sushi market to grow 7.6% year-on-year to 725.2 billion yen in 2022, with expectations to surpass 750 billion yen in 2023.

The term "conveyor belt sushi" was officially recognized in the 1991 fourth edition of the Kojien dictionary, underscoring its integration into Japanese culture. Genroku Sushi still holds "Kain" as a registered trademark, a legacy that Hiroshi chose to share with the wider industry in 1997, aiming to foster further growth in the conveyor belt sushi sector.

References:

- J-Net21 Special Feature on Expo 1970

- Nikkei Article

- Mizkan Sushi Lab

- Gentosha Go Article

- Seiyodo on the Appeal of Sushi

- Sushi All Japan